Angle of engagement refers to the first teeth to make contact in the rack & pinion style setup of an AEG. In this picture you can kind of see how the first tooth of the sector gear is not meshing well with the pickup tooth on the piston.
In this second picture the meshing is improved and the sector gear engages the piston at nearly the twelve o’ clock position. This is perfect AOE.
This was achieved using two methods. The first was to add a taller pad to the back of the cylinder head. In this case it was regular polyurethane rubber. Some techs prefer sorbothane but polyurethane has excellent shock absorption anyway and has a faster return speed which means more consistent air volume in the cylinder, increasing accuracy.
The second and just as important method to achieve proper AOE is to remove the entire 2nd tooth on the piston, as well as partially remove the 3rd tooth. The Lonex stock piston is already designed to accommodate the taller cylinder head pad, as it’s cast with the 2nd and 3rd teeth completely removed.
Your gun does have a Lonex motor, but that doesn’t really mean anything. It’s a stock ferrite-magnet 28~32 TPA long type motor. Seems to do the average 20RPS on an 11.1v high discharge LiPO.
The black carbon buildup on the trigger trolley was strangely half-way up the contact point. This was because the contacts were protected by a dielectric grease, preventing plasma arcing but giving you an abysmally long and squishy trigger pull. I cleaned the trigger contacts with a dremel tool wire wheel and high grit sand paper.
The two big red wires are part of the stock setup, re-soldered to be a part of the new circuit for the MOSFET. The small red wire is the new signal wire for the MOSFET.
Here is the IRLB3034PBF MOSFET with a few other bits. The ‘FET is permanently wired in-line with the original wiring kit for convenience.
Your gearbox looks very cool.
To save space, I put the ‘FET in the tiny space between the gearbox and the sling plate on the buffer tube. In this configuration the MOSFET is seamless and invisible. On your gun I had to remove a few millimeters of material on the gearbox and frame of the gun to make room for the chip. You will not notice this however because it’s on the inside of the gun.
To disable the electric blowback, I removed the tooth on the EBB camshaft. The tooth is pictured here on the right hand side protruding up. It has been permanently removed with a dremel cutting disk, thus preserving the mock bolt cover functionality.
After a single cut & adjustment on the spring it’s sitting at a comfortable 312 FPS. At this rating you are sure to always pass the chrono, as you are 16 FPS under the limit. I could add a few spacers to raise this, but you can also boost your FPS by improving hop-up compression or other compression parts, so right now it’s perfect.
Finally, I added three o-rings to the front and one to the back of the hop-up to help it sit better inside the body of the gun, and to prevent the adjustment wheel from slipping out of its home. This can also improve compression.